Tales of the Carry-On Kid: Tanzania Travel Log Vol. 6 – Ramadan and a Ferry

Just off of the coast of Tanzania is the fabled island of Zanzibar. Zanzibar is famous for its abundance of spices and, oddly enough, for it’s ornate doors. Being a two hour ferry ride away, how could I not go there? Growing up, I learnt about this island. I can’t tell you exactly where or when but I did, and Zanzibar has always been one of those places I’ve known about.
Some of my co-workers were hesitant to go for a few reasons. First our trip happened during the Muslim observance of Ramadan. Ramadan is observed by fasting during daylight hours for a month. This is seen as a time for cleansing and a renewal of faith. I have been in Africa for many Ramadans and working with my African brothers and sisters who are Muslim is a challenge. It isn’t a challenge because they are Muslim, it is a challenge because they are not eating or drinking during the day. Muslim or not, this will wear you out – imagine getting to about week three of this, how would you feel?
The island of Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim and so Ramadan was in full swing. To compound this problem there were reports that people were being arrested for eating at local restaurants during the day. Being a tourist destination I was doubtful, but isn’t that how rumors work? The second problem was the two hour boat ride, or the puddle jumper plane ride that costs money, and to be honest were huge time sinks. I refused to be deterred by such obstacles like time sinks and rumors of jail time on a semi isolated Islamic island. Fortunate for me a few of my other co-workers felt the same way as me.
Tom and John who were staying in the hotel next to mine were kind enough to make our reservations for the ferry ride and a spice tour. The ferry tickets were $40.00 USD. Not cheap, but a small price to pay to visit the storied spice Island of Zanzibar. We were due at the ferry port at 0830 local. I decided to forgo the ample hotel breakfast buffet just in case the ferry ride was rough. I have no pride when it comes to making a technicolor yawn over the rail of a boat, but who wants that nasty acidic taste in their mouth? We headed to the port and we immediately assaulted by no less than three “parking” guides. These are folks who guide you to a parking spot and expect a small fee for their services. Our driver Salum, being the epic guy that that he is, was having not of that nonsense. We had arrived early so we drove a block away from the port and parked for free. When it was close to time to board the ferry we headed back into the beehive of activity to get to the ferry. After deflecting offers of taxi rides and other sundry services, we made it into the ferry waiting area. I was surprised at just how modern our seaborne steed was. I have learned not to underestimate Africa and Africans, so I can say I’m not totally sure what I expected.
Most of my ferry rides occurred during vacations to Port Aransas, on the Texas coast. We always took the car ferry to get over to the island, so I guess that was the basis for my surprise at the sleek modern ferry we took out to Zanzibar. Next week we’ll look at the “Scrum”.



